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Finished Fly
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of each step.
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OLD FLY OF THE MONTH
PATTERNS
This section of the web
site will be dedicated to the Fly of the Month. Each month, we
will take a local fly that has been doing well on fish, and give you
step-by-step instructions on how to tie it. Many of these
flies will be submitted by local guides. Each fly will contain
a materials list, as well as a guide on how to fish it.
December
2007
The Flats Master
Original By: Mike Wolverton
Tied By:
Captain John Tarr
Materials Needed:
- Mustad 34007 #1 to #6
- Marabou
- Craft Fur
- Hackle for Palmering (Grizzly feathers
preferred)
- Lead or Beadchain Eyes
- Hard Mono for Weedguard
Tying Directions:
- Step One: Secure the hook in
the vise point down. Attach the thread and move to the
rear of the hook, just before the bend.
- Step Two: For the tail, take
a clump of marabou and attach to the top of the hook shank.
Use enough marabou to make a full tail on the fly.
- Step Three: To finish the tail,
rotate the fly hook point up. Take two marabou tips, I
prefer grizzly marabou, and attach to the bottom of the hook
shank. Make sure one feather is attached to each side of
the hook point.
- Step Four: To make the body
of the fly, cut a swatch of craft fur about the size of a large
pencil. Clean the craft fur out and trim the bottom for
tying in. Attach to the bottom of the hook shank, directly
in front of the marabou. Once secure, pull the craft fur
forward and wrap 3-4 times behind the craft fur; this will help
the craft fur sit-up (post).
- Step Five: Move the thread
forward and rotate the hook to the point down position.
Attach the eyes approximately 1/8"-1/4" in front of the craft
fur, on the top of the hook shank. This will make the fly
ride hook point up (clouser-style).
- Step Six: To complete the
body, move the thread back, behind the eyes, to just in front of
the craft fur. Tie in a grizzly hackle for palmering.
- Step Seven: Palmer the
feather forward, filling in the gap between the craft fur and
the eyes. Once the feather reaches the rear of the eyes,
secure it and trim off any excess.
- Step Eight: Move the thread
in front of the eyes and attach a mono weedguard. Once
attached, whip finish and cut-off the thread. Cover
exposed thread with head cement and allow to dry.
Tying Notes:
This fly is a very
"buggy" design. It will push a lot of water when stripped, but
also has a lot of movement under water, without any stripping.
You can create a barred tail by using a permanent marker to bar the
craft fur. I prefer to tie this fly in natural colors: olive,
tan, cream, brown, black. For dirty water, you may add a small
amount of flash in the tail. Lead eyes work best if you want
to get the fly to the bottom. Bead chain eyes work well if you
want the fly to suspend in the water column.
Fishing Techniques:
For redfish, I will
cast the fly in front and allow it to sink to the bottom.
Then, when the fish is about 6 inches away, I will slowly strip it,
keeping it in contact with the bottom. Be prepared, as I have
had the fish rush forward to take the fly before stripping.
For trout, I will use
a beadchain fly, to keep it in the water middle of the water column.
I use, short, quick strips to make the fly jig up and down.
The fish usually take the fly on the drop.
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